On a wintery morning, we headed to Jaljulya, we wanted once and for all to learn how to make makluba. Ali Salach enlisted his mother to help. At 11:00 we walked up the stairs to a strikingly clean kitchen, and after only two minutes, pots and pans were already on the stove, and before each stage she sat down and lit a cigarette, her hands moving at amazing precision, she doesn’t have to taste anything. In the meantime, large plates are being set on the table, and Ali apologizes: “I’m really sorry, I only told her last night that you are coming, and she didn’t have time to make anything”; pickles in amba, spicy olives, pickles, stuffed grape leaves, potatoes stuffed with meat, small eggplants stuffed with something else, zucchinis with lamb and yogurt, okra with veal and tomatoes, and in the middle…. the makluba. The dish is quickly eaten, and is replaced with a new one instantly, we sat, tired from the meal over dishes from heaven, which are still being replaced with new ones, everyone ate for three people and the table is loaded with amazing food, we got confused and couldn’t recreate anything, let alone the makluba.